If you’re like a lot of folks out there, you bought a home a few years ago to get in on the real estate market before things went sour. And, in the process, you opted for a fixer-upper to save money.
Now you’ve got a little time invested in the home and you’re finally getting around to remodeling the bathroom, which is a great idea for updating your home’s appearance and boosting its value.
But let’s say you bought a home with a 1960s bathroom vanity. Are you are more interested in a modernized look? How do you safely remove bathroom vanities in order to replace with new bathroom furniture or other items?
Here are the steps for removing an old vanity as recommended by Kevin Ireland, formerly the editor for American Woodworker magazine, now a writer for corner.hardware.com.:
1. Turn off the water supply and disconnect the water and drain lines using an adjustable wrench, and disconnect the supply tubes for the hot and cold valves. Put a pan or bucket under the sink to catch water.
2. Remove the sink or vanity top, using either a pry bar to separate the top from the vanity, or by removing any tables holding the sink in place. Slowly work the vanity out onto the floor and take it out of the bathroom.
3. Once the old vanity is removed, check for damage and consider repairing any rot from previous leaks by replacing the plywood or flooring. Do this before you put in a new sink because it’s easier to do than cutting vinal, tile or wood flooring around the it later on.
Repair drywall if needed. Check for water damage and repair or replace the drywall if necessary. (If you do have to repair damage, our articles on hanging and finishing drywall will be helpful.)
Using a carprenter’s level, level the floor where the new vanity will sityou’re your floor isn’t level, use a plywood base for the vanity.
Locate and mark the studs in the wall and mark them. This will make it easier for later when you begin installation. Use vertical lines on the wall where the cabinet’s edges will be; mark where the piping will go usijng horizontal and vertical centerlines on the wall, making sure these reference lines are level and plumb, respectively. On the wall, measure from the mark for the nearest cabinet edge to the center of the drain line, and from the center of the drain line to the floor. Finally, measure the distance from the reference lines to the center of each of the supply pipes. Then transfer all three pipe locations to the back of the vanity, as shown in the drawing.
3. Cut holes in the vanity for water and drain lines. Mount a 1/4-inch twist bit in an electric drill and drill pilot holes at each of your layout marks. Then, mount a hole saw in your drill that is at least 1/2-inch larger than the widest part of your water and drain lines. To eliminate unsightly torn edges, drill part way through from the back, and then shift to the inside of the cabinet to finish the holes. Use the pilot holes to align your hole saw when you start drilling each hole.
4. Use galvanized screws to secure the vanity to the wall making sure holes and studs are alligned.
5. Install the faucet and sink according to manufacturer’s instructions, tightening the fittings with adjustable pliers. Run a bead of adhesive silicone caulk around the top edges of the vanity cabinet, around the top rail at the back of the cabinet and around the back-splash.
6. Connect the plumbing and add trim. Working from inside the vanity, wrap Teflon tape around the threads on each water supply valve. Attach the supply lines to the supply valves, and tighten them a half turn past hand tight with adjustable pliers. Attach the sink trap to the drain line and to the tailpiece, following the manufacturer’s instructions, and then add the pop-up control rod. Use clear silicone caulk to seal the seam where the top edge and sides of the back-splash meet the wall.
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